Introduction to Recoleta

The recoleta cemetery
The recoleta cemetery
Home to museums, art galleries, gourmet restaurants and posh cinemas and theaters, Recoleta has long been associated with Argentine high society . Many Argentine aristocrats have chosen its world famous cemetery as their final resting place. Close to just about everything, safe, and full of things to see and do, it makes a great place to stay while getting your feet wet in Buenos Aires.

Where to stay in Recoleta

Hotels in Recoleta

Prior to the 2001 financial crisis, the only accommodation in Recoleta was of a few luxury hotels. But in the past ten years more affordable hotels and hostels have opened up and there are now rooms available for almost every class of traveler. Its proximity to the microcenter and the Retiro bus and train stations means that you should be able to walk to everything, and if your feet get tired there are no lack of taxis is this zone.

To check availability and prices of hotels in Recoleta on, Click here.

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Hostels in Recoleta

There are a couple of excellent hostels in Recoleta and they are a good choice for young single travelers or anybody on a budget.Hostels in Recoleta

Transport in Recoleta

The Subte (metro, subway) D line passes to one side of Recoleta and should you need to go to Palermo or Belgrano, its your best bet. Tons of buses also pass through the neighborhood, many on Santa Fe or nearby parallel streets, but these are best avoided during morning rush hour as they are jam packed with people by the time they get so near to downtown.
In many cases your best bet may be to walk down to the Retiro train and bus stations. Although you could easily catch a bus in Recoleta to lets say, Olivos, in the province of Buenos Aires, a train would get you their more comfortably and quicker.

One further advantage of staying in Recoleta, or Palermo for that matter, is its proximity to the Aeroparque Jorge Newberry airport. If you plan on flying to another destination inside Argentina or in one of the bordering countries, chances are your flight will be leaving from that airport.

Where to eat and drink in Recoleta

Bars in Recoleta

There is a slew of bars on the streets that surround the cemetery. They tend to come and go though, as high rent forces them to close. There are also many posh cabarets in this area, and single men can expect to be harassed by touts trying to usher them inside.

Note that the Newport bar, with all its sexy women sitting near the front windows, is a place for men to pick up professional working women. Its best avoided unless that is what you’re looking for.

Shamrock – Rodriguez Peña 1220

A favorite among Argentines and tourists alike, Shamrock is about as close as you’re going to get to an Irish bar in Argentina. It’s also one of the few places with a lively happy hour. From opening until 12PM drinks and beer are discounted. Prices go up after midnight, but remain some of the most reasonable in the neighborhood.

The basement of the bar turns into a nightclub on weekends and cover is charged to enter.

Be aware that what little food that is on the menu isn’t very good. But you can always skip out to nearby La Cholita or Cumaná to get a bite. Just remember to go early enough (before 10PM) to avoid long lines.

Casa Bar – Rodriguez Pena 1150

While still not as popular as nearby Shamrock, American owned Casa Bar is beautifully decorated and serves good drinks, and should you need one, coffee. It also is one of the few places in BA which serve American style wings. Large screen TVs to watch American sports.

The bar is overpriced though, and the prices are not justified by the sometimes very slow service.

Across the street from the bar are the always packed La Cholita steakhouse and Cumana restaurant, which serves just about everything but steak. These restaurants are among our favorites in BA, but get there early as there is a line after 9PM.

The Alamo – Uruguay 1175

American owned and run, the Alamo was once an expat hangout, but recently seems to be dominated by very young Argentines. It still remains one of the best places to get really drunk, if that’s what your looking to do. And since the owners are American, you won’t need to slur anything in Spanish to get service. Also good for after work drinks or watching American sports on their large screen tvs.

There is an upstairs and a downstairs at this bar and the latter tends to get really smoky, so go upstairs if you don’t smoke.

Recently they have been charging 30 pesos cover charge at the door, but in turn they give you tickets worth 30 pesos of food or drink. It seems they have to do this to avoid the place filling up with young kids who takes up seats and don´t spend any money. It does however make it annoying if you just want to get one beer.

Milion – Paraná 1048

Set in a beautiful old mansion, Milion is worth a visit even if you just want to see the building. In the summer the crowd spills out to the back patio where a lovely marble staircase serves as overflow seating. They also serve food but it’s nothing special.

Jack the Ripper – Libertad 1275

This bar has changed location several times throughout the past years, and everytime its location seems to be more beautiful than the last. Has a good selection of beer and mixed drinks. Outside of happy hour, it can be a bit quiet though.

NotoriusJunín 1715

For musicians or anyone interested in music, this is one of the places we can’t recommend enough in BA. Live music shows throughout the week with everything from Jazz, Bosa Nova to Folkloric music. They also have a large collection of CDs for sale, with rock and pop music being the least plentiful.

Check out the schedule of shows at Notorius

Things to do in Recoleta

Central Cultural Recoleta

This city run arts center has good rotating art exhibits and sometimes plays. Entrance is cheap, and since you will undoubtedly be in the neighborhood to see the cemetery, you should go.

Bellas Artes Musuem

This is a great art museum for both Art buffs and those of us who don’t understand art. It’s the perfect size, not overwhelming like other art museums in the world, meaning you can see everything in about an hour. Has a good collection of both European and Argentine art. And it’s free, but donations are accepted at the door.


Downhill from the cemetery and Buenos Aires design there are a series of parks and plazas that almost connect with the Bosque de Palermo parks. Across the avenue from the Bellas arts museum one finds a massive reflecting flower. This metal sculpture opens and closes with the sun and is surrounded by a nice green park (no dogs permitted means a great place to lie in the grass and get some sun :) ).

More Information

The city has and information booth in Recoleta at Ayacuco 1958. The official internet site of Buenos Aires is a good source for information on cultural events in Recoleta and other neighborhoods in the Capital Federal


Introduction to Salta

In the past fifteen years Salta has gone from a hardly known scruffy town to one of the biggest tourist destinations in Argentina. With its colonial architecture and easy access to the natural beauty of the nearby valleys it no wonder why many come to this city and never leave..

Where to stay in Salta

Hotels in Salta

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Hostels in Salta

Salta is big in the backpacker scene and there are many hostels to choose from. To check availability of hostels in Salta click here: Hostels in Salta

How to get to Salta

By Air

The Martín Miguel de Güemes airport (SLA) is located 7 kms to the southeast of the center. Flights daily to Buenos Aires, Córdoba, Jujuy and Puerto Iguazú. Aero Sur, from Bolivia, flies to Santa Cruz del la Sierra. For more information on flights and the General Belgrano airport click here.

By Bus

The bus terminal in Salta (tel. (0387) 4011143) is located on Av. Hipólito Irigoyen 339 one block from Parque San Martín. Buses leave from Salta to just about everywhere. Buenos Aires is a 19 hour trip, Iguazú 23 hours and La Quiaca on the border with Bolivia, 7 hours. Also buses to San Pedro de Atacama, Chile (reserve in advance). The following companies offer bus service to Salta:

Almirante Brown
La Veloz del Norte
Nueva Chevallier
Sol and Valle



New Times Cafe

Located right on the central plaza, the New Times Cafe is the perfect place to people watch while catching a bit of sun or drinking a coffee. Wifi available.

The official internet site of the province of Salta

Things to do in Salta

Tren de Las Nubes

We are not decided yet on whether a trip on the Tren de Las Nubes (Train to the clouds) is worth the time and money yet. While it does pass some stunning scenery it is a long all day affair, and is prone to delays and cancellations. Trains leave Salta at 7am on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays and return at just before midnight. During the winter, the train goes as far as the Polvorilla bridge, at a elevation of 4,220 meters so it is not uncommon to see temperatures below freezing. In the summer due to heavy rains it may not go that far. Breakfast is included in the ticket price and food is available in the dining car, although at an inflated price. . To see the official website with info and online reservations click here

One common alternative to the train is to rent a car and take a full day trip from the city to San Lorenzo, San Antonio de los Cobres, Salines Grandes, Purmamarca, Jujuy capital and return to Salta late at night. While it is possible to do this trip in one day, it is a long day and some of the roads can be treacherous at night. A better option might be to make a two or three day trip out of it and include Tilcara and Humahuaca. There are tons of car rental agencies in Salta that cater to travelers doing this trip.

San Lorenzo

An attractive town located at the base of a leafy canyon, just on the outside of the city. Recently expats have started buying property in this area and as a result the selection of restaurants and hotels has increased nicely. To get there take a taxi from the center or local bus

Nightlife in Salta

Balcarce street, near the old train station has many bars and is the center of nightlife in the city.

El Calafate, Santa Cruz

First Time in El Calafate

El Calafate is the gateway to the Glaciar Perito Moreno and Parque Nacional Los Glaciares. Hotels and restaurants are full here during the summer (December to March). During this time you will need reservations for both accommodation and transport. It is still possible to visit in the spring or fall, or even winter for the those who don’t mind the cold.

Where to stay in El Calafate

Hotels in El Calafate

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Hostels in El Calafate

El Calafate caters to a backpacking crowd and therefore there are many hostels. For independent travelers, it is the best option. Note that hostels in all of Patagonia tend to be more expensive in other parts of the country. To check availability of hostels in El Calafate click here: Hostels in El Calafate

How to get to El Calafate

By Air

El Calafate International Airport is located 17kms from the city center. Aerolineas Argentinas and LADE both have daily flights to/from Buenos Aires, Ushuaia and Esquel. If flying to Esquel or Barilohce with LADE, try to sit on the left side of the airplane. The views are expectacular.

By Bus

The bus termimal is located Av Roca. Many daily sevices to Rio Gallegos (4 hours) and Puerto Natales, Chile (5 hours). In high season booking ahead is a must. Many a traveler has been stranded in El Calafate and Rio Gallegos for days due to lack of tickets. Below is a list of buses from El Calafate and prices for the 2011-2012 season.

Destination Duration (hours) Price (in Argentine pesos)
El Chalten 4 85 low
95 high (3)(4)
Río Gallegos 5 78
Perito Moreno   350(1)(2)
Bariloche   700(1)(5)
Puerto Natales, Chile 5-6  
1) Departs on odd days
2) Service until the 12th of April
3)All passengers boarding buses in the terminal of El Calafate must pay a terminal tax. The cost for residents of Argentina is 2 pesos and non residents pay 5 pesos.
4) High season: October 1st to April 8th
5) With transfer and overnight stay in Perito Moreno


The official internet site of El Calafate

Things to do in El Calafate

If your thinking about going to El Calafate, you already know about Glaciar Perito Moreno so we won’t waste your time telling you about it. All travel agencies offer the tour at basically the same price, which at the time of this writing was 180 pesos, not including the entrance to the park. The National Park fee for foreigners is 100 pesos, for Argentines 40 pesos. Tours leave bright and early at 8AM and usually later around 2PM.

If you are really feeling adventerous, a hiking tour on top of the glacier itself is available. Known as Minitrekking this excursion brings you to dock on Lago Argentino, where after a quick boat ride you will arrive to the base of the glacier. There you will put on your crampons and listen to a brief chat before crossing the glacier. Later after another boat ride you will end up at the same place as the excursion above, The hike isn’t terribly srtenous, but all the same you should be in decent physical condition if you plan on doing it.

If you have time you should visit El Chaltén and Mount Fitz Roy. It’s a four hour bus ride and well worth it. Note that El Chaltén is quite remote and you should stock up on any luxuries in El Calafate before heading there.