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Update on the Puyehue volcano and flights within Argentina

Published on October 26, 2011 by in News

A jet covered in volcanic ash sits grounded at the Bariloche airport.

A few readers have written us recently  asking the status of flights within Argentina.  In case you haven’t heard, the in Chile has been erupting since June of this year and the volcanic ash in the atmosphere has caused the cancellation of thousands of flights, both domestic and international.

Well unfortunately the volcano continues to erupt and flights to parts of Patagonia continue to be cancelled.  The airport in Bariloche is closed for repairs until late December, but flights are being rerouted to Esquel.  From Esquel there is free bus transport to the airport in Bariloche. 

Esquel is about 4 hours by bus to Bariloche.  The countryside between the two cities is gorgeous.

And with the airports in San Martin de Los Andes and Neuquen also closed, the only way to get to the Lakes district other than flying to Esquel, is by bus or auto.    

Now as we have said countless times before, the option of taking a bus to Patagonina might not be as bad as you think it is.  Buses in Argentina, especially the first-class Cama buses, are confortable and quiet.  It is entirely possible during a long trip to get a full night’s sleep, eat well and watch a couple of movies.  Overnight 12 hour trips can be completely comfortable. 

But after 12 hours one starts to get anxious, and the bus ride from Buenos Aires to Bariloche is a 20-23 hour journey. 

If you do decide to travel by bus and have the time, we suggest you break the trip up with a stopover in Santa Rosa or even Neuquen.   Now we will be the first to admit that neither of those towns is among the most exciting cites in the world, but if it’s just for one night, you should be fine.

If you decide to fly to Esquel make sure you reserve your tickets in advance.  Even though currently it is not high travel season, prices for foreigner passengers on these flights can get quite steep  if not purchased in advance. To check on availability of flights to Esquel, use the search box on the right. The code for the airport at Esquel is ESQ.

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Belgrano

Published on October 21, 2011 by in Buenos Aires

Introduction to Belgrano

One of the most upscale neighborhoods of Buenos Aires, Belgrano is both a residential area and a shopping district. Strolling through the streets one finds many well maintained houses and businesses on leafy streets. Due to its distance from the microcenter, most foreigners who stay in Belgrano plan on staying longer term than the average traveler. And those who do generally love it.

Where to stay in Belgrano

Hotels in Belgrano

To check availability and prices of hotels in Belgrano on Booking.com, Click here.

To comprare prices and read reviews of hotels in Belgrano on Expedia, click here: Hotels in Belgrano

Hostels in Belgrano

Budget accommodation is a bit thin in Belgrano, but not totally nonexistent. La Pampa hostel is a good option: Hostel in Belgrano

How to get to Belgrano

Althgough Belgrano is further away from the center than Palermo, Recoleta or San Telmo, it is well served by public transportation and taxis.

The D line of the Subte runs under Avenue Cabildo and most things of interest would be a short walk from one of the stations. Many bus lines also run up and down Cabildo or nearby parallel streets .

There are too many buses passing through Belgrano for us to detail all the routes here, but here are a couple of the most popular ones:

  • 152: Runs between La Boca and Olivios, outside the Capital Federal. This line is good for
  • 59: Another company that runs between Belgrano and the Microcenter.
  • 118: Passes by Barrancas de Belgrano, Recoleta and eventually Once.

Services

Shopping in Belgrano

Shoe stores, clothing boutiques and sporting good stores can be found on either side of Avenue Cabildo. Despite being in a upper class neighborhood, prices in these stores remain competitive and they generally have a good selection.

Restaurants in Belgrano

The restaurants that line Avenue Cabildo cater to the wealthy and are generally not a good value. The lunch specials they sometimes advertize in the windows might only be a hotdog on a plate with a few chips and a glass of Coke. If you are craving a hotdog, you can get one from a street vendor at about a quarter the price.

Nightlife in Belgrano

Salsa dancers can show off their skills at Azúcar on Cabildo 2040. Lessons daily at 9PM, Saturday at 11PM. Dress sharply, those wearing tennis shoes have been turned away at the door.

Things to do in Belgrano

Just off of Cabildo on Juramento is the round church Redonda de Belgrano.  Despite its modern look the building dates back to 1870.  Inside is just as impressive as the exterior, with many paintings and even a replica of the Last Supper by Da Vinci.

A bit further down Juramento, one comes to another park designed by French architect Carlos Thays, the Barrancas deBelgrano.  It’s a nice place to sit in the sun or shade for a bit and look at statues and sculptures.  On one side of the park there is a mini replica of all things, the Statue of Liberty.

Crossing the railroad tracks brings you to Buenos Aires´ Chinatown, or Barrio Chino as it is called in Spanish.  It’s not huge, only a few square blocks, but definitely worth a visit.  Most shops there are closed on Mondays.

The Monumental, or better known as the River Plate stadium is located in nearby Nuñez.  It´s a short pleasant walk and close to parks and the Costanera Norte.  if after visiting the stadium you wish to explore further  you could potentially walk all the way to Palermo and almost Retiro passing only through parks.

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Hotels in Belgrano

Published on October 21, 2011 by in Buenos Aires, Hotels
Check prices on the Expedia newtwork
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Hotels in Recoleta

Published on October 2, 2011 by in Buenos Aires, Hotels
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Recoleta

Introduction to Recoleta

The recoleta cemetery

The recoleta cemetery

Home to museums, art galleries, gourmet restaurants and posh cinemas and theaters, Recoleta has long been associated with Argentine high society . Many Argentine aristocrats have chosen its world famous cemetery as their final resting place. Close to just about everything, safe, and full of things to see and do, it makes a great place to stay while getting your feet wet in Buenos Aires.

Where to stay in Recoleta

Hotels in Recoleta

Prior to the 2001 financial crisis, the only accommodation in Recoleta was of a few luxury hotels. But in the past ten years more affordable hotels and hostels have opened up and there are now rooms available for almost every class of traveler. Its proximity to the microcenter and the Retiro bus and train stations means that you should be able to walk to everything, and if your feet get tired there are no lack of taxis is this zone.

To check availability and prices of hotels in Recoleta on Booking.com, Click here.

To comprare prices and read reviews of hotels in Recoleta on Expedia, click here: Hotels in Recoleta

Hostels in Recoleta

There are a couple of excellent hostels in Recoleta and they are a good choice for young single travelers or anybody on a budget.Hostels in Recoleta

Transport in Recoleta

The Subte (metro, subway) D line passes to one side of Recoleta and should you need to go to Palermo or Belgrano, its your best bet. Tons of buses also pass through the neighborhood, many on Santa Fe or nearby parallel streets, but these are best avoided during morning rush hour as they are jam packed with people by the time they get so near to downtown.
In many cases your best bet may be to walk down to the Retiro train and bus stations. Although you could easily catch a bus in Recoleta to lets say, Olivos, in the province of Buenos Aires, a train would get you their more comfortably and quicker.

One further advantage of staying in Recoleta, or Palermo for that matter, is its proximity to the Aeroparque Jorge Newberry airport. If you plan on flying to another destination inside Argentina or in one of the bordering countries, chances are your flight will be leaving from that airport.

Where to eat and drink in Recoleta

Bars in Recoleta

There is a slew of bars on the streets that surround the cemetery.  They tend to come and go though, as high rent forces them to close.  There are also many posh cabarets in this area, and single men can expect to be harassed by touts trying to usher them inside.

Note that the Newport bar, with all its sexy women sitting near the front windows, is a place for men to pick up professional working women.  Its best avoided unless that is what you’re looking for.

Shamrock –  Rodriguez Peña 1220

A favorite among Argentines and tourists alike, Shamrock is about as close as you’re going to get to an Irish bar in Argentina.  It’s also one of the few places with a lively happy hour.  From opening until 12PM drinks and beer are discounted.  Prices go up after midnight, but remain some of the most reasonable in the neighborhood.

The basement of the bar turns into a nightclub on weekends and cover is charged to enter. 

Be aware that what little food that is on the menu isn’t very good.  But you can always skip out to nearby La Cholita or Cumaná to get a bite.   Just remember to go early enough (before 10PM) to avoid long lines.

Casa Bar - Rodriguez Pena 1150

While still not as popular as nearby Shamrock, American owned Casa Bar is beautifully decorated and serves good drinks, and should you need one, coffee.   It also is one of the few places in BA which serve American style wings.  Large screen TVs to watch American sports.

The bar is  overpriced though, and the prices are not justified by the sometimes very slow service.

Across the street from the bar are the always packed La Cholita steakhouse and Cumana restaurant, which serves just about everything but steak.  These restaurants are among our favorites in BA, but get there early as there is a line after 9PM.

The Alamo – Uruguay 1175

American owned and run, the Alamo was once an expat hangout, but recently seems to be dominated by very young Argentines.  It still remains one of the best places to get really drunk, if that’s what your looking to do.  And since the owners are American, you won’t need to slur anything in Spanish to get service.  Also good for after work drinks or watching American sports on their large screen tvs.

There is an upstairs and a downstairs at this bar and the latter tends to get really smoky, so go upstairs if you don’t smoke. 

Recently they have been charging 30 pesos cover charge at the door, but in turn they give you tickets worth 30 pesos of food or drink.  It seems they have to do this to avoid the place filling up with young kids who takes up seats and don´t spend any money.  It does however make it annoying if you just want to get one beer.

Milion – Paraná 1048

Set in a beautiful old mansion, Milion is worth a visit even if you just want to see the building.  In the summer the crowd spills out to the back patio where a lovely marble staircase serves as   overflow seating.  They also serve food but it’s nothing special.

Jack the Ripper – Libertad 1275

This bar has changed location several times throughout the past years, and everytime its location seems to be more beautiful than the last.  Has a good selection of beer and mixed drinks. Outside of happy hour, it can be a bit quiet though.

Notorius -Junín 1715

For musicians or anyone interested in music, this is one of the places we can’t recommend enough in BA.  Live music shows throughout the week with everything from Jazz, Bosa Nova to Folkloric music.  They also have a large collection of CDs for sale, with rock and pop music being the least plentiful.

Check out the schedule of shows at Notorius

Things to do in Recoleta

Central Cultural Recoleta

This city run arts center has good rotating art exhibits and sometimes plays.  Entrance is cheap, and since you will undoubtedly be in the neighborhood to see the cemetery, you should go.

Bellas Artes Musuem

This is a great art museum for both Art buffs and those of us who don’t understand art.  It’s the perfect size, not overwhelming like other art museums in the world, meaning you can see everything in about an hour.  Has a good collection of both European and Argentine art.  And it’s free, but donations are accepted at the door.

Parks

Downhill from the cemetery and Buenos Aires design  there are a series of parks and plazas that almost connect with the Bosque de Palermo parks.  Across the avenue from the Bellas arts museum one finds a massive reflecting flower.  This metal sculpture opens and closes with the sun and is surrounded by a nice green park (no dogs permitted means a great place to lie in the grass and get some sun :) ). 

More Information

The city has and information booth in Recoleta at Ayacuco 1958. The official internet site of Buenos Aires is a good source for information on cultural events in Recoleta and other neighborhoods in the Capital Federal

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Hotels in La Plata

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Hotels in San Antonio de Areco

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La Plata

Introduction to La Plata

The first planned city in South America, La Plata is both the capital of the province of Buenos Aires and one of the republic’s biggest university towns. Near the center there are many large attractive government buildings, but it is the massive neo-Gothic cathedral that steals the skyline.

Where to stay in La Plata

Hotels in La Plata

While the cities proximity to Buenos Aires means you don’t have to stay overnight, the town can still be a good escape from BA, especially during the spring when classes are still in session and the streets are lively. To check availability and prices of hotels in La Plata on Booking.com, Click here.

To comprare prices and read reviews of hotels in La Plata on Expedia, click here: Hotels in La Plata

Hostels in La Plata

There are a few hostels in town. To check availability of hostels in La Plata click here: Hostels in La Plata

How to get to La Plata

By Bus

The bus terminal in La Plata (tel. (0221) 4273186 I 4273198) is located on Calle 41 between 3 and 4. Buses to Buenos Aires run all night

By Train

Trains leave from the Constitucion station in Buenos Aires to La Plata every 20 minutes or so. During rush hour periods the trains can be packed full and some say the trains are dangerous at night. But we have never had a problems on them. Trains run until just after midnight and start back again around 4 in the morning. The trip to/from BA takes a little over an hour.

Services

The official internet site of La Plata

Things to do in La Plata

The large Bosque de La Plata park is a great place to walk or just sit under a shady tree and relax. There is also an excellent natural history musuem (Museo de La Plata) within its boundaries. The museum is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10 in the morning untill 6 at night. Entrance cost 6 pesos, free on Tuesdays.

Sports in La Plata

La Plata has two major football clubs, Estudiantes and Gimnasia, although this second one was relegated to the second division in mid 2011. Estudiantes play at the new football stadium, Estadio Ciudad de La Plata, which can easily be spotted from the spires of the catederal. Check their schedule here

Gimnasia, now relegated, have returned to there small but centrally located stadium. See a schedule of their games here.

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San Antonio de Areco

Introduction to San Antonio de Areco

A pampa town famous for being the birthplace of Ricardo Güiraldes, the author of the novel about the life the gaucho Don Segundo Sombra. The town has a rich history and has been declared a city of historic interest by the republic.

The residents of the town seem to be proud of their history, and the whole pueblo seems to be better maintained and cleaner than similar towns in the pampa. San Antonio de Areco’s proximity to Buenos Aires makes it a great destination for a day trip from the capital, but will be better enjoyed if you go for a full weekend.

Where to stay in San Antonio de Areco

Hotels in San Antonio de Areco

To check availability and prices of hotels in San Antonio de Areco on Booking.com, Click here.

To comprare prices and read reviews of hotels in San Antonio de Areco on Expedia, click here: Hotels in San Antonio de Areco

Hostels in San Antonio de Areco

To check availability of hostels in San Antonio de Areco click here: Hostels in San Antonio de Areco

Camping

There are a couple of campgrounds along the banks of the river. The most popular one would be Club River Plate, which is themed towards the football team with the same name. Its on the costanera. Fees for the 2011/2012 season are 40 pesos per tent , with up to 4 people per tent.

How to get to San Antonio de Areco

By Bus

The bus terminal is located on Av. Dr. Smith. Several buses daily to Buenos Aires (2 hours). Check into minibus service, especially if you are going to or from somewhere outside of the capital federal.

If you are going away from BA, check into long distance services to Córdoba and Rosario.

By Car

From Buenos Aires its a straight shot down route 8 (110kms).

Services

A tourist office is located on the corner of Arellano and Zebroni (M-F 8am to 7pm, weekends and holidays until 8). The official internet site of San Antonio de Areco has some information on events.

Things to do in San Antonio de Areco

Just strolling through the streets and the the pueblo is pleasing enough. A good place to picnic is in the Parque Criollo along side the river -ask at the tourist office about free bike rentals and pedal on the road the follows the river upstream. Canoes and canoe trips are also available.

If art is more of your thing, the museum Molina Campos de Areco on the corner of Moreno and Alem is dedicated to the life of the artist Florencio Molina Campos. Its open Fridays to Sundays 10 am to 8 pm in summer and until 6pm in the winter,

Every year for a week in November (the 5th to the 13th in 2011) the Fiesta de la Tradición is held to celebrate the culture of gauchos.

In February of each year the birth of Güiraldes is celebrated and then in October they celebrate his death.

Unfortunately flooding in 2009 damaged the gaucho museum Museo Ricardo Güiraldes. They are currently restoring it, but no date has been set for its re-opening.

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Mountain Huts (Refugios) near Bariloche

Mountain huts, or Refugios as they are called in Spanish, provide shelter for hikers and mountain climbers in many regions of the world. Accommodation in these huts is generally fairly basic – a roof and sometimes a platform on which to throw down your sleeping bag. Other huts have luxuries such as bathrooms, kitchens and some are even staffed during the summer months. But even the best huts would struggle to obtain one star on the Michelin scale.

So why, you might ask, would you want to go to one?

You’ll know the answer to that question when you wake up in the morning and walk out the front door of the refugio. The view will be spectacular, the air crisp and clean and the only noise you will hear is the birds chirping and the wind blowing through the top of the pine trees. And after a long day of hiking you will find basic spaghetti to be the best meal you have ever had. And if a storm should kick up in the middle of night, the sound of rain on the roof will lull you to sleep.

The refugios near Bariloche are, in our opinion, among the best in the world. All can be reached in less than a day from Bariloche and some, such as the Cerro Lopez, are as little as a two hour hike away from the trail head. All trails are also easily accessed, some even by local transportation, making them affordable for all budgets.

Also since the mountains in Patagonia are lower in elevation than most of the Andes, no acclimatization to altitude is required. Yet even at the lower elevation of the peaks, it is still possible to see glaciers.

Many of the refugios have staff (refugieros) during the summer. Some will provide hot meals and cold drinks or beer for a fee. Prices are fairly reasonable, especially if you consider that everything is some of these huts must be carried up manually, usually by backpack.

Below is a list of refugios near Bariloche. They are all operated by Club Andino Bariloche. Note that the refugios are all run by the mountaineering club, Club Andino Bariloche. They have an office located right in the center ( 20 de Febrero # 30 ), uphill from the YPF service station, where you can buy maps and get information about trail conditions.

They also tend to aggressively sell the services of guides there. On one hand, we see their point: most visitors to Bariloche come from Buenos Aires or other completely flat areas and have no experience in the mountains. But on the other hand, if you or anyone in your group has a decent amount of experience in the outdoors, you should be able to make it to the huts without a guide. The exception to this would be in the winter or spring, when snow may make it difficult near the end of the trek.

In no circumstance should you, once high in the mountains, try to hike between the huts alone. Those trails tend to be much less used than the trails to the huts, and in some cases are technically challenging. Ask the staff at the refugio before proceeding.

Mountain Huts near Bariloche

Name Location Features
Lopez Cerro López
elevation above sea level: 1620 m
Privately owned. Dining room, kitchen, bathrooms and bedrooms (capacity: 100 people).Open from December to April. Partially accessible by dirt road.
Italia or Laguna Negra On the lake Laguna Negra
elevation above sea level: 1650 m
Capacity for 60 people. Dining room, kitchen, bedroom and bathroom. Open from November 15 to April 15.
Frey On Cerro Catedral
to 1700 m
Capacity 40 persons. Kitchen, dining room, bedrooms, bathrooms, hot water and other services.
Open all year round.
San Martin / Jakob Laguna Jakob
elevation above sea level: 1600 m
80 persons capacity. Kitchen, dining room and kiosk. Open from December to April.
Otto Meiling On Mount Tronador above Pampa Linda Located just to one side of a glacier. Spectacular views or the valley below. In our opinion this is the best refugio in the area.
Capacity 60 people. Kitchen, bathrooms and bedrooms. Open from December to April.
Berghof On the way to
Cerro Otto.
Capacity 40 people. Dining room, kitchen, bedrooms, bathrooms with hot water, supplies and other services. Open all year. Accessible by road vehicles.
Neumeyer Challhuaco Valley
elevation above sea level: 1250 m
Accessible by vehicles, this refugio offers cross country skiing in the winter and great hiking in the summer. Ask at your travel agent for "night in the refugio" packages.
Capacity 50 people overnight.Kitchen, dining room, heating, bathrooms with showers, hot water and other services. Open all year.
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